The History of the Howardsville Turnpike

 

 Several months ago Cathy Lang requested I do an article about the Howardsville Turnpike, an early trade route that runs from Middlebrook to Howardsville, VA, where goods were then shipped to Richmond via the Kanawha Canal. Years ago, I interviewed Eugene Ramsey who gave me detailed information on the road and I wrote a story that was published in the May, 1982 Backroads. That information, along with the other pieces obtained at the Waynesboro Public Library, make up this updated article about the route once considered to be an interstate highway of the 1800's.  ~ Lynn Coffey

The History of the Howardsville Turnpike

Wagons burdened down with freight such as various grains and agricultural products, hogsheads of tobacco, and pig iron from the Mount Torrey Furnace near Sherando were hauled over the early road. The furnace produced 1,000 to 1,500 tons of iron ore a year between the years of 1801 and 1880. Whiskey was likely cargo since Augusta County produced 90,000 gallons of spirits in 56 distilleries, according to an 1840 census report. Cattle and turkeys were also driven over the steep mountain inclines of the Blue Ridge in order to reach the Howardsville destination. Talking with Ruby Hamner many years ago, she related how people would drive flocks of turkeys on the road. When camp was made that evening, the turkeys would fly up and roost in the trees. The trip would sometimes take 2 or 3 days and entire families would make the trip together.

The hearty people driving their wagon teams up the slopes and through the valleys were traveling on a near-forgotten road called the Howardsville Turnpike. In the 1850's it provided this area's major transportation link with Eastern Virginia. During severe weather, only a few miles a day could be made in the heavy wagons, sometimes taking up to two weeks to complete the trip. People camped along the way and had to be on the lookout for robbers which frequented the highways. Large teams of horse or mules pulled the wagons, sometimes as many as six animals per individual wagon. The custom of the time was to have "bell teams," consisting of a set of bells hooked on the horse's harness or on the wagon itself. If a wagon got mired down in the mud or its wheel slipped off the road and needed assistance from a passing wagon, the bells were automatically forfeited to the one helping. There was a certain amount of prestige in having a lot of bells adorning one's wagon because it showed everyone you were a very capable handler on often dangerous terrain. The turnpike was also unique for its time in that it was an excellently engineered road. It was a point to point route of even grade, making it possible for the cumbersome wagons to maneuver the steep mountain slopes.

Originally, the turnpike was built as a means by which the people of Shenandoah Valley could haul their goods to Howardsville where it was put on boats bound for Richmond. A canal around the Falls of Richmond was completed in 1795, allowing travel west on the James River for a distance. As settlers increased and began traveling west, a better source of transportation was needed. And so, paralleling the James River, the Kanawha Canal system was built. The Canal reached Howardsville sometime in 1834. The James River and the Canal reached their closest point to Augusta County at the thriving little town of Howardsville and on February 17, 1846, the General Assembly adopted an act incorporating a company to build a turnpike road from Howardsville to Roberts Ford, across the Rockfish River. It is not known who took the initiative for the project, but someone realized that the area which is now Nelson and Augusta Counties did not have a direct connection with the James River/Kanawha Canal system and consequently with Richmond and Eastern Virginia. The road was built by, and controlled by the Howardsville and Rockfish Turnpike Company. Shares of stock in the company were sold for $100 each and 30 stockholders formed the original corporation. As word of the project grew, as many as 68 shareholders would be part of the company. Over the years the road was expanded but because of lack of funds and several construction disputes, the turnpike, which stretched 53.31 miles from Howardsville to Middlebrook, Virginia, took almost ten years to finish. There were toll booths set up along the route, whereby gatekeepers would collect a fee from people traveling the turnpike. These tolls were used for road repairs. By the time the road was completed in 1858, the railroad came across the Blue Ridge via a tunnel at Afton and connected with the Kanawha Canal in Buena Vista, and its usefulness became obsolete. The road was thought to be abandoned after the Civil War.

The suspected route of the turnpike from Howardsville to Middlebrook is as follows: From Howardsville the route followed Mt. Alto (Rt. 602) to Rt. 617 in Schuyler. From there by the old railroad bed (which was built on the old road) to Rockfish Station. Then pick up Rt. 617 through "Old Stage Bridge". At present Rt. 29, the route doglegs west to Rt. 619 through Twin Poplars to Rt. 810 (part from Poplar School to Rt. 810 no longer maintained). From Rt. 810 to Rt. 6 to near the junction of the south and north forks of Rockfish River where it followed the South fork. On to Lodebar; Rts. 612 and 613 in part. The route then follows near present Rt. 151 north, passing near the front of Rockfish Presbyterian Church, through Martin's Store (present junction of Rts. 6 & 151, near Greenfield). The route continues along Rt. 151 to Rt. 709 near Proffet's Chapel and up the mountain on a portion that is no longer used, to Humpback Gap (under Humpback Rocks, touching the parking area on the East corner). It then parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway on the East side to the junction with Rt. 610 (Augusta Co.) and proceeds through Sherando to Rt. 608 through Stuarts Draft, and on to Rt. 340 southwest on to Greenville. Although not as carefully researched, the company reported that on Sept. 30, 1853, the road was completed from Stuarts Draft to a point near Middlebrook, intersecting the Browsburg and Middlebrook Turnpike. Mileage was 34.25 from Howaredsville to Sherando, 14.06 mi. from Sherando to Greenville, and 5 mi. from Greenville to Middlebrook.

The Howardsville Turnpike was once a thriving passage but now all that's left is parts of the old road along with its brief, written history to commemorate its usefulness as a trade route in the middle 1800's.

 

Note from Merlot:  I first saw this article back in 2002 when I was a subscriber to the Backroads Newsletter. It was of interest to me because the Appalachian Trail is briefly on the old Howardsville Turnpike roadbed before it leaves to start switchbacking up the back of Humpback Mountain. There have been many theories floated around over the years by hikers and maintainers about how the Howardsville got built, in particular the beautiful stone retaining walls. While in the Humpback Visitor's Center during Farm Fest, I noticed several books about the local people and the author's name was familiar .... Lynn Coffey. The BRP staffer at the desk told me that Lynn lived in Love (just down the BRP) and would be at Farm Fest later in the day to sign her books. Hearing "Love, VA" clicked the memory switch and I realized that Lynn had been the editor for Backroads (and author of many articles).  After meeting Lynn and explaining that I would very much like to put the "History of Howardsville Turnpike" article on the R2R blog, she graciously (and instantaneously!) agreed, then she promptly mailed me a copy of the April 2002 newsletter for me to use.  As mentioned, Lynn has also written 4 books about the people in the area. There is The Backroads Trilogy: Plain Folk & Simple Livin', The Road To Chicken Holler, and Faces of Appalachia. Her most recent book, published in August 2013, is called Appalachian Heart. Please check out these wonderful books at the following link:

The Backroads Books

Attribution: The History of Howardsville Turnpike, which appeared in the Backroads Newsletter, Vol. 21, No. 242, April 2002, was reproduced here with permission.